AutoMag vs Minimag

[weaver]

Other than the body itself, what are the differences between the automag and the minimag? I'm wondering, if I bought one, could I replace the body with the other? Which pieces wouldn't fit?

[Grendel]

No difference just the body of the mini mag is different and it's not even smaller but actually bigger I never did understand the name. You thinking about build one? If so I have a lot of parts for an Automag not currently in use. When I upgraded mine I went with the ULE body so I have a left over RF body, Sight rail and many parts for a classic valve. If you are looking for new you can not beat the price of an RT-ULE Custom with x-valve it costs more to build one from a stock gun then just to go buy one. That is the gun Jim used last weekend.

RT - ULE Custom

Another good choice
TAC-One

[weaver]

Thanks for the info. I've always loved mags and I keep seeing them go on ebay anywhere from a $100 - $200. So yes, I'm probably going to try to get one again. I need to do some reading on the new mags though (RT,ULE,whatever). I don't know what has changed since the 68 classic.

[Grendel]

Most likely any mag you picked up on e-bay for that cheap will be a Lvl 7 Mag. The current addition is Lvl 10 and it has a very effective anti-chop feature and is worth the investment. Supposedly you can shoot faster with a LVL 7 but I've never seen the evidence. RT = reactive trigger this helps you to shoot faster, mine RTs like crazy almost impossible to chrono and I'm planning on returning mine to a less sensitive RT setup for reliablility. ULE bodies are made of aluminium and use cocker threaded barrels instead of the twist lock barrels originally used. ULE Triggers are super smooth light weight triggers that rival electronic triggers but are mechanical meant for faster shooting.

[weaver]

Yet again, you're extremely helpful Grendel. I appreciate the info. I'll do some looking around. I'm in no hurry on this one for a change.

Since Deep adjusted my cocker for me, I'm good to go for a while. Going to stick with the cocker and try to learn it too but I just want the mag cause I've always loved them. Don't know which will end up as my primary.

[deadeye]

Weav,

Grendel is right, a Mag is a Mag is a Mag. I have the RT Pro. Mutated a bit, not even a HALO B could feed that pig fast enough. I had to also slow it down.


The X-Valve is the greatest thing for Mags comes with Level 10 Antichop System they are $225 from AGD, HEY PBC LOWER YOUR PRICE! You can go to AGD right now and buy the RT Pro for $340 (comes with the ULE and the x-valve) it however comes with the stainless steel frame not the ULE one (weight).

Mine and Grendel’s are setup with Warp feeds. Once you learn them they are easy to take care of.

[scpaintballer01]

i got a mag (mini) that im willing to let go for 150

[weaver]

Originally Posted by scpaintballer01

i got a mag (mini) that im willing to let go for 150

Whats the specs on it there band boy?

[weaver]

Grendel, Deadeye,

Couple of things, I've heard the RTs just aren't as good as the classics. This is totally hear say as I've not used an RT at all. Also, aren't they all vertical feed? If so, can you rig a site rail still? And lastly, unless I'm just hosing paint, is the Xvalve really better (ie worth the cost) than the level 10?

[REF]

RT are better than the classics hands down, its almost a whole different marker as far as performance.

a lvl10 is just a bolt not a valve, so any type of valve will be fine with the lvl10(except the sydarms). all new x-valves com with a lvl10, but used ones may have it taken off and sold speratly. here are 2 good places for info- www.havoc-online.com and http://zakvetter.com/Pages/Paintball...mags_main.html