101 things to do to quiet your sniper

[thumper]

hey all - I hate to share all the good stuff, but in the interest of the pump community here on pbj, Ill kick this one off.

Subject: how to quiet your sniper...

note: Many tips here will decrease efficiency, and lessen consistancy. This article is all about QUIET.


#1) dont hold the pump handle silly... the initial blast will drive the bolt back 1/2" against the pressure of the pump return spring - and that blast wont be heard. Ironically this can actually speed up the velocity - so if you use this technique, chrony using the "hold" and "no-hold" techniques. Why this occures is theorized to be related to decreased initial deformation on the ball resulting in decreased initial drag on the ball. (This technique also works pretty well on the PYRE.) The ball regains initial shape faster, the goo inside becomes stable faster - and the ball flies better.... i.e., the legend of the sniper II.

#2) Get the pressure down -- 350 is a good goal, and 180 for the crazys out there. A higher volume, lower pressure pop on the ball >> higher pressure, lower volume pop -- and more stable ball as it exits the barrel. The lower the pressure, the more quiet the shot.

#3) More barrel, and port it - alot. My favorite oldschool barrel has to the original 16" All American for quiet. The Bob Long "longshot" is a step above accuracy wise, but I think the AA is the quietest.. In new school, any of the 16" heavily ported barrels will do. I would lean to the 16" new style sto kaner kit for the best "quiet" barrel kit. WGP made a pretty monumental error in discontinuing these.

So far, most of the Sniper 2 fans out there already knew this stuff.

#4) JAM Enterprises made an open faced spring loaded bolt that essentially accomplished the same thing as not holding the pump handle. The initial blast drives the bolt back 1/2" against the pressure of the internal bolt spring. Now if you dont hold the pump handle also, it gets even quieter. You run the risk of double feeding and a heavy pump return spring is advisable to dial this in. This mod makes a huge difference in quieting down that sniper --much, much, much more so than any of the "silencers" of the early 90s.

#5) One shot silly. Give them fewer shots to hear. I know its elementary, but it seems a lot of new school kiddies love their ATs. There is a time to be noisy, and a time to be quiet - lest we forget. This is why the right feed bodies are favored by the oldschool pump ballers.

#6) Neoprene that hopper .. to keep the raddeling down.

#7) Loose the tubes and pods : there has to be nothing noisier than a pack full of pods or a harness full of tubes running through the woods. I personally like the old thick-walled 90 round whaler feeds w/ neoprene cover and no spare paint. I also run a 200rnd 9V revy w/ neoprene for big games/scenarios when I know Ill be out for a few hours.

#8) Quiet that pump kit... I know a lot of guys will cringe at this, but man a lot of metal on metal pump kits go "click, click, click" -- Personally I lean delrin (handles) and steel (pump rods) and aluminum (guide rods).

#9) Full Length Springs : I believe you want your main spring full length, with one turn in on the ivg. This should prevent the "TWANG" and give the most consistant performance.. This can fight against any ultra low pressure goals.

#10) CO2 or HPA) Palmer theories that CO2 expands slower than HPA. It would be cool to do a sound test at a fixed pressure. I would lean HPA if going < 350psi, and CO2 if content at 300-350 and playing in SC with a well broken in STAB.

Bodies: my choice body for going uberquiet? I would lean to 2k0,2k1 stock RF WGP, or 97-99 RF Free Flow as ideal platforms to begin with. Reason being lower pressures begin w/ larger valve chambers.

Valves: for < 350, you better be thinking AKA Tornado, maybe MADDMANN rocket valve, or maybe free flow. For 350+, any valve will do. CCMs, FREE FLOWS and BELSALES are all extreamly well made - lots of stainless, and flow well. (Side note: Ive lost love for the RAT 3:16's -- the aluminum stuff just gets beat up too easily) Ive never messed with PPS's LT valve - but I hear good things.

Regs : HPA: AKA Sidewinder for max volume. C02: Palmer 0-700 PSI STAB + expansion knuckle.

Hammers : CCM makes a nice heavy hammer.

anyone care to add?

[Grendel]

Thumper hit all of the big points:

Potential quiet barrels, that I can think of:

• - original SP All American
• - Freak SP All American [I use]
• - Old BOA Barrels [vented]
• - old BOA Concealer [if you can find one]
• - Palmers Dual Vented in 12"-16" [I use]
• - Bob Long Long Shot
• - Old/New style Kanner
• - Deadly Wind

For hopper I too like the old school Whaler but if you want to use an "agitated" hopper go with the old 9V Revolutions hoppers. They spin much slower and are much quieter. The old soft "rubber" shells are great if you can find them. Always cover your hopper with neoprene it will quiet any hopper down [judicous use of Skunk Pelt works too LOL].

[thumper]

Originally Posted by Grendel

.. [judicous use of Skunk Pelt works too LOL].

lol -- good one for 6:49am G

[The_Joker]

Great info guys... Thanx for sharing the good stuff.

[Mr.Aggsauce]

bolts?? i like to think that the venturi style bolts w/ a bunch of holes is quieter than an open face bolt.

ive put a ccm bolt in my sniper and it was no where near as quiet as my 10 hole freeflow

[thumper]

Originally Posted by Mr.Aggsauce

bolts?? i like to think that the venturi style bolts w/ a bunch of holes is quieter than an open face bolt.

ive put a ccm bolt in my sniper and it was no where near as quiet as my 10 hole freeflow

Ill agree in principle on the venturi - but the JAM open face is different - with the pump handle "held" it is just as quiet as with the pump handle not held. Grendel and I spoke last year about making a venturi version of the jam bolt -- to get the best of both worlds, but my 6 axis CNC hasnt arrived just yet...lol

[Mr.Aggsauce]

Originally Posted by thumper

but my 6 axis CNC hasnt arrived just yet...lol

i have an extra in my garage...nah jk.

my step dad works at bosch and says they have literally "tons" of machineing centers just sitting in a warehouse. most are auctioned off and stuff. vut they are still expensive... my money tree in the back hasnt quite yeilded enough to afford 1 yet. :(

[The_Joker]

Originally Posted by Mr.Aggsauce

...

my step dad works at bosch and says they have literally "tons" of machineing centers just sitting in a warehouse. most are auctioned off and stuff. vut they are still expensive...
:(

Casey,

You think they would be willing to do a small project I have in mind for a fee or does Bosch not like to do outside work???

[Mr.Aggsauce]

it really depends what it is. if its lathe work ill have a lathe soon that my grandfather is giving me.

as far as bosch doing stuff. "Bosch really doesnt like to fund my little paintball projects" my stepdad says.. he had a barrel tip turned to fit into an old style phantom AA back for me like during his lunch time. if its nothin bigger than that lemme know and ill talk to my dad about it.

[ace007]

Originally Posted by thumper

Ill agree in principle on the venturi - but the JAM open face is different - with the pump handle "held" it is just as quiet as with the pump handle not held. Grendel and I spoke last year about making a venturi version of the jam bolt -- to get the best of both worlds, but my 6 axis CNC hasnt arrived just yet...lol

We've got (2) 6 axis & (2) 7 axis CNC machines at work. Sadly, they are never, ever free for government work....

Something about the machines "paying for themselves"....