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| Pump Pump Discussion Area |
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#1
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Sniper II - lighten up that pump stroke
I replied to a guy over on customer cockers -- he was askign about how to lighten the pump stroke on a sniper II..
my reply.. SPRINGS: green maddman main spring and valve spring, ivg all the way out, then in 1 turn, CCM hammer (nice, heavy and ready), uber light pump return spring, and pollish up the guide rods. then bring pressure up to compinsate for light main spring. HAMMER : If this doesnt do it, look to the lug, lower tube, and the little channel the lug travels in - especially in the older bodies. ive seen plenty of beat up lug channels and nasty anno jobs that put friction on the hammer. this will also improve shot to shot consistancy LUG : I would maybe consider trying to adjust the trigger sear such that you can raise the lug some. less lug = less friction, and sears are easy to adjust. Ditch the slider and get a hinge. BOLT : your bolt may have o-rings. I personally really like the aluminum belsales supercharger bolts -- I normally keep several on hand. It is amazing how one bolt fits dramatically different from the next. Harbor freight carries these uber oring kits when come in handy for adjusting the bolts and how they travel in the upper tube. your upper tube must be lubed for orings. I dig light air tool oil. Your bolt should float friction free in the upper tube. COCKING ROD : cock your pump, and look into the feed tube. Right as the sear catches the lug, your bolt should barely clear the breach. this distance can be adjusted by adjusting the little thing on end of the cocking rod. #10 neoprene orings help this adjustment as well. just slide them on the cocking rod - kind of old school, but arent we all? now this technique has nothing to do with optimizing effiency - it is simply about pump stroke.
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#2
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42 views and no replies...
Either im an idiot, and getting the "dreaded cricket" treatment, or all this widom is just so common place, it aint worth mentioning... oh dear, oh dear...
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#3
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I'll reply just so we don't have to hear you whine.....chirp chirp...
Those are some pretty good suggestions.. Petroleum-based oil on orings??
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Greg greg@pbjunkie.com It's true married men live longer than single men...but married men are much more willing to die. ![]() I'll Hara-kiri.....if you show me how. |
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#4
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I use AM FLO light air tool oil, like what they use for air compressors. no solvents.
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#5
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nylatron freeflow bolt. no orings. problem solved.
lighter bolt w/ less coefficient of friction than aluminum, no orings to cause drag(lets face it if an oring is doin its job its gonna drag atleast some), no need to oil...all around better solution. |
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#6
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Taking your advice from prior threads where I asked you about a good starting point for lower pressure, 3 weeks ago I gathered enough courage to change out the valve and main springs and replace them with green Maddman springs.
With the IVG all the way out, interestingly the velocity and pressure remained constant at 280 fps and 300 psi respectively.... but the pump stroke was dramatically lighter. |
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#7
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Quote:
for cockers maybe derin for weight/cycle reasons - but for pump'n - supercharger rules.
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#8
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and we have a bingo..
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#9
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Quote:
I'm going to introduce you to some 3 in 1 sewing machine oil. That stuff will make even tough critics like yourself a believer!!!! |
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#10
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ha. ill stick my freeflow bolts. im far to lazy to worry bout oiling my stuff. youve seen the pants i wear clay. when im done playing the gear goes in the bag and stays there until the next time i play.
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