Ok, well seeing as how I don't post on here my rep around these parts might not be as formidable as it once used to be. But being the self-promoted cocker tech of PBC, I think I might have a little insight into this world, esp having setup easily the 2 quietest markers at this field.

Firstly, both of the markers run right about 300psi output from an ANS gen-x reg, into an AKA valve. Never found a better reg for HP air into a better valve, and you name it, I've tried it. Never been a fan of CO2, so much so that I don't even use it on my phantom, but anyways. The AKA is the only way to go in a valve, highest flow and simply the best valve I have ever used.

Onto the pressure conversation, once again I said 300psi which will probably fall in the low-end, but the higher end of the low pressure if you get me. This is all kind of beating around the bush of my point here...

In the end I hate to say this to you, there is no real answer to your question for every gun, as all set-ups are different. Each reg is going to let a different amount of air at a certain pressure into a chamber varying in size being released by a valve at varying amounts and speeds of release, into different bolts escaping through differnet porting which really makes nothing consistent except for what you know holds true to your gun.

You find me Friday night at PBC and bring your gun and we'll have some fun...becuase I probably helped you, but in a not so nice way...

So to make a long story short, I run about 300 psi...

Almost only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, and nukes!

That was actually very good information, thank you.

I'm beginning to realize that every Sniper II will have it's own personal operating pressure and "balancing act" for best performance.

Where this information is helpful is at least having a starting range/point to work with and using it to fine-tune my specific marker.

I appreciate all of y'alls input and being willing to help me (and others) with this.

The Pump Community is the best!!!

This thread may be worthy of a sticky for anyone else with similar questions in the future.

Rod

El Cid '89

Like I said find me Friday, I wear the bring bright ass yellow RK shirt, with a a retardedly old beat up and ragged JT hat. My name is Matt or Coz, ask any RK or PBC person, I shouldn't be to hard to track down, I might actually haul my toolbox out there....

Almost only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, and nukes!

Thanks Matt, I appreciate the offer but it won't arrive until the week of the scenario. Hopefully it will be in by the 14th so I can use it for the weekend.

If you'll be at the Ardennes scenario, it'll be good to talk with you there.

Rod

El Cid '89

I was refering to Ardennes lol, I love like 5 min away from PBC so, it would almost be a sin for me to miss the game...

Almost only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, and nukes!

LoL... Yeah... we'd have to beat you if you missed that one.... and call ya a wuss.

Rod

El Cid '89

These were noteworthy from MCB:

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From Thumper:

rf evo-x?? is it red?

My team mate Big Bear has a nice HP evo cocker - and it is amazing how well belsales could tune an old cocker. Ive got a nice LP evo cocker - and ide say they are neck and neck - by the HP version seems more crisp. If you have an HP evo cocker that is working -- leave it and play it as is.

For pump, you dont have the pneumatics compressing the main spring for you - and the pump gets to do the work. This means YOU get to compress the spring. A smooth pump action requires an uncompressed light rear spring.

In my mind a Maddman Blue main spring with the IVG all the way back is a nice place to start. (In summer, I may drop off to green main springs) (like palmer says : "people for stress free main springs") -- and with a light main spring, I work the marker to fit that. all else is secondary. Pressure and volume can both be adjusted. MaddMan blue fronts always work. Nice and reliable.

In the CO2 world, I love an older male stab. Normally 375psi is a good starting point.

My RF evo X has a 99 valve chamber and 99 pump guide hole. To get my volume right, Im normally willing to drill my guide rod. I would not hesitate to drill a stock WGP guide rod 0.151" x 1.5" to provide just that little extra bit of volume behind the valve. The volume allows for a lower main springs tension and lower pressure. (more volume is not better - too much volume can destabilize things)

(all other things being equal, that little extra bit of volume will add over 50 to 75fps)


Once set up to 350psi-375psi operations w/ a stress free main spring - and a mid range pump return spring - try shooting w/o holding the pump handle. hole the reg instead. what you should see is a very, very quiet shot that never hooks at the tail end.

Any decent barrel kit should work well. I have had problems w/ stock wgp pump kits and DYE Ultralite binding, and my SLY will hang just a bit w/ stock wgp pump kits. For stock WGP pump kits, I really like the old style kaner w/ 12" tips for 375psi operations. The new style kaners are nice - but I think there is something magical in the older style's porting.

Bambuski at PBC has a magical very LP sniper that ive heard good things about. You could always try out an AKA Tornado valve, and AKA 2 liter reg and see how low you can go. I hevnt seen any performance differences in going below 350psi - but the sound signature continues to drop. I fear stability may suffer - but you could get lucky.


question: what you doing for frame/trigger?
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From Grendel:

I expect my snipers to be and average +/- 2 fps from the velocity I shoot for [usually 275 fps]. With a good regulator, good internals and a well sprung Sniper this is very attainable if it is worse than that then I go back to tinkering.

The Angry frame is a very nice frame and you really need to do nothing to it. IMO right up there with Quickfire Frames. That is if you like sliders if you want swing then "massaged" Old School Potmetal swing triggers have a wonderful feel on a Sniper.
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Rod

El Cid '89

My team mate Big Bear has a nice HP evo cocker - and it is amazing how well belsales could tune an old cocker. Ive got a nice LP evo cocker - and ide say they are neck and neck - by the HP version seems more crisp. If you have an HP evo cocker that is working -- leave it and play it as is.

Thank's Thump. I love my HP evo has not let me down yet.

i have a mid pressure (450) evo cocker i love shoots great ask bear me and him love trading paint with our evo's

One other thing I haven't seen mentioned that is often overlooked is sweet spotting your reg. Basically it amounts to adjusting your reg up until your velocity drops and then you back it off a bit. This will allow the maximum through put with less fluctuation. Theoretically that is. I have a little experience with Snipers and Cockers, although not as much as Grendel and Thumper recently. I run my "World's Heaviest Sniper II" at about 250 - 275 psi and with my old style Dye Boomstick it is the quietest gun I have ever owned whiile still being efficient. With that said, I have run it as low as 200 psi, but it wasn't noticably quieter and was terribly innefficient. Like the guys above said, Snipers are kind of like an old muscle car. You can put the same parts on two different guns and they will still operate a little bit different. That is why I love them so much.