Originally Posted by Archer99

Here are some of the questions I had about Shockers before I bought mine, along with the answers I have discovered after my first weeks with this great marker.

1. Q: Are Shockers really that accurate? A: Ok this could be a long one. My old gun was a very tricked, low pressure GT2000. With the correct paint/barrel combination, I would be hard pressed to tell a huge accuracy difference between it and my shocker. Sacrilege you say! Everyone catch your breath, here is the rest... that is only true under specific circumstances, shooting a correctly zeroed sight (red dot). ONE shot with the red dot was almost as accurate with one gun as the other. Shoot more than one shot and there is no comparison. Shoot fast with the GT and the pattern opens up. This is caused by the gun moving around more, the longer trigger pull, and the slightly more inconsistent velocities. The shocker puts all the balls in the same place. It barely moves with firing, even my SF on full auto. It is also very consistent. I have a Prochrono digital and my shocker frequently shoots 2-3 shots with the exact same fps. The rest rarely vary more than 3-4 fps. Consistency=Accuracy. In stock form, the Shocker would completely dominate the aforementioned GT2000. It took lots of time, effort, and money to get the GT shooting close to the accuracy of a Shocker. In stock form, there is not another gun that I have seen that can compete with a Shocker.

2. Q: Are Shockers really that quiet? A: Yes-with a quiet barrel. The guns internals produce almost no sound at all. The limiting factor is the barrel. With the stock barrel, there will not be a quieter gun on the field without a pump handle.

3. Q: Are Shockers really that big? A: Depends.. I think most of the "Shockers are giant 10lb guns" thinking comes from the fact that Shockers are frequently the first electro most people own. If you are like me, you bought a low cost semi (spyder, m98, piranha), found out you loved paintball, and saved up to buy a high end marker. Most of the low cost semis have lighter construction (more plastics, fewer parts), and when you make a jump to a Shocker, it is going to feel heavier and bulkier. Note that we are talking ounces here. Take your gun and feel the weight. Now fill your hopper with paintballs. Chances are it is now heavier than an empty shocker. My Shocker with a 24oz tank and 12v revy, measures 26” long and 19” high. With a vertically mounted regulator, a barrel in the 12” to 14” range and a properly adjusted drop forward, you can competitively play any position on the speedball field. Put on that stock 16” AA and the woods become your domain.

4. Q: Are Shockers hard to maintain? A: No, but If you can’t take every part of your M98, Spyder, or Mag apart, put the parts in a bucket and shake them around, then reassemble your marker without the manual, you may not be Shocker material. I come from a long line of machinists and mechanics. I’m a CAD draftsman myself and very technically oriented, so I love working on my Shocker. I frequently clean and lube it not because it needs it, but just because I find it relaxing and enjoyable. If you find yourself chucking your marker behind the seat of your truck with paint all over it after a long day of play, get another marker. The recommended daily maintenance on a Shocker can be done in 1 min-Unscrew and remove the bolt. Lube it and replace. The recommended monthly maintenance on a Shocker can be done in less than 10 mins. The manuals are well written, and a Smart Parts Tech is a phone call (and maybe a couple of minutes on hold) away.

5. Q: Are Shockers really Gas Hogs? A: Yes- Compared to most markers anyway. Shockers really have to use more gas because of their pneumatic operation. There is just more for the gas to do in a Shocker. The gas has to cycle the bolt back and forth to load balls every shot. This is the same gas that is used in the air assist. The problem is that it moves the bolt and then is expelled from the gun while a different volume of gas is propelling the paintball. That’s almost twice as much gas per shot as the average blowback. The upside is that because of its low pressure operation, the Shocker works great off of CO2. Liquid CO2 cannot exist at the operating pressure of the Shocker (180-200psi). CO2 usage was the major decision on my purchase of a Shocker. Believe it or not, not everyone has access to HPA! My field does not have HPA and you are hard pressed to find another electro that functions as well on CO2 as a Shocker (Impulse and Intimidator come to mind). Another plus is the cost of the air system. My 24oz Anti-siphon CO2 tank cost me less than $30. Most other electros require a much more expensive (and bulkier) HPA system. The HPA is usually more expensive to refill especially in the 4500psi version. So yes, the Shocker is a gas hog, but the low cost of the air system and tank fills tend to balance out the gas usage.

Those are the questions I had when deciding on a Shocker, and the answers I have found after ownership. A Shocker won’t turn you into Rambo. In fact, my marks probably went down as I got used to my Shocker, but the accuracy, speed, and stealth of this marker will allow you to be competitive against any marker out there, and out-gun most of them.

Note: This info is purely my own observations and opinions. If I have any misleading information here, please bring it to my attention. This info is based on the Shocker in my sig. I have not shot any of the newer LS or Vertical models, but if you would like to donate one….

Update: Been playing with a 2001 V-Sport now for 6 Months. The new leverswitch trigger feels better to me than the domeswitch trigger did. I also have a freak barrel for this marker. The ability to match paint is a great feature. No more worries about small paint rolling out of my barrel. I am surprised by how good the Vertical feed and 68cuin tank balance. The marker seems much smaller when properly balanced.

There is a gun with the quietness of a shocker prowling about. Its called the Matrix by Diablo.

I still think that the price/performance ratio makes the Shocker a great buy.

Originally Posted by C4pyro

1. Timing on the old boards is done by flipping a set of 4 dip switches. The first two control the bolt speed. The second two control the firing bolt time (how long the firing piston is open, and how much air is used.) Generally it should come timed, but if you wanna screw around with it, make sure you mark down somewhere what the original setting was so you don't screw up you timing and forget what the proper timing was.

2. No it isn't just a gimmick to sell a certain product. You have to use dow 33 grease to grease your shocker or your gonna screw it up. The oil doesn't stick to the parts, so after a lot of fast cycling of the parts and lost of air passing through these parts, the oil will blow all over the place and eventually you will have nothing protecting the innards of your marker parts. The grease stays on the parts, and that is why it must be used. Thiing is you don't even have to buy the smartparts dow 33 grease. The sell it at a lot of hardware stores as well. Just make sure its dow 33.

3. The battery is a one shot deal. It lasts for about 60,000 shots though so as long as you have an on/off switch you should be fine. The nine volt convertion isn't that major of a deal as long as you don't stick brand spacking new batteries in it. Other then that just take the batteries out of your twelve vlot rev that you have used for a while and throw them in.

4. The power feed is when the feed port crosses the opening of the breach. When you have an air assist it uses access air form the marker to push the balls faster into the breach of the marker. If its already on you gun all you have to do is attach a hopper and it will do all the work for you. If not you just have to unscrew the standard feed and then screw in the powerfeed attachment.

5. The new solinoids and new pistons are just working components of the marker. The new solinoids may just mean that the marker was freaquently used and have had them replaced. The new piston is one of tow things. Either the person put in a new one made of a stronger alloy or they old one had worn out and has been replaced. Its the part that moves back and forth to let air into certain chambers to fire the marker. Teh werm 2 bolt I have as well. It is a delrin bolt which is lighter and is self lubricating. With this your marker will be a little more efficient and the bolt will cycle faster because it is lighter then the standard bolt head. But even thoughthe bolt is self lubrication, still mack sure you grease the o-rings on the bolt head itself. The double trigger is simply that. A two fingered trigger. A gadget grip is a foregrip that is placed up at the front of the marker help stabalize the marker with your other hand that isn't on the trigger. The s/f lock, is just that your marker is apparently a select fire marker, meaning it has a switch on the fornt of the marker that when hit will either send the marker into full auto or three shot burst. The lock is a cover for this switch because full auto and burst is not allowed in tournaments. So if you don't do tournaments you don't need it, but if you do, thats what its for. The maxflo locking ring, is a ring that goes on the maxflo reg. The reg is used to control your velocity and can be done by hand without any tools. If one were so inclined in a game they could simply turn there velocity up and then after the game turn it back down to what it should be. This ring makes it so once you have set your velocity you use an allen key to tighten the ring so you can't turn up your velocity without the aid of a tool.

Originally Posted by smores

Q: When taking off the grip frame what screws should I remove?

A: Take out the two base screws that are attaching it to the body, and also the TOP GRIP FRAME SCREWS. If you fail to remove the top grip frame screws you can chip your solenoid board rendering your gun useless.

Originally Posted by Rembrandt

Great post again.